A week across Europe by rail: Reflections from the journey

I’ve just returned from a week-long rail trip that took me from home through London, Ghent, Eindhoven, Luxembourg, Bern and Aachen, with stops in Brussels, Maastricht, Liège, Basel, Luzern and Zermatt. It was one of those journeys where every day felt entirely different. Looking back at the map, it barely captures how varied it all was - quaint towns and cities one moment, the Matterhorn towering above Gornergrat the next.

Because I can’t resist talking about public transport and planning, a few things stood out.

I knew Luxembourg offered free public transport nationwide, but Bern caught me by surprise, as most hotels there give guests a pass for all local public transport, making it incredibly simple to get around.

One of Luxembourg’s trams at Waassertuerm tram stop

Much of the travel was thanks to staff FIP coupons, which were invaluable. They covered almost every rail journey of the week, and the only ticket I paid for was Luxembourg-Mulhouse – €40 with a staff rate. If you work in the rail industry, FIP genuinely opens up Europe in a way that’s hard to overstate.

Switzerland, unsurprisingly, was a highlight. Everything feels so integrated: the same clocks, the same screens, and connections that seem designed with clockwork precision. The double-deck trains were a particular joy – low-floor, spacious, and brilliantly thought out. Away from the rails, seeing the Matterhorn up close was unforgettable. And yes, I took plenty of selfies.

An SBB CFF FFS LD Double-Decker unit at Basel SBB

I was also fascinated by how many state operators part-operate certain cross-border routes. Liège-Luxembourg was perhaps the oddest – a very slow run where half the route had ticket checks and the other half didn’t. Writing this from above Basel SBB, watching trains glide in and out in matching branding, made me quietly hopeful that the UK will one day reach the same level of cohesion.

One of my favourite things about travelling by rail in Europe is how quickly the character or attributes of a place changes as soon as you cross a border. You can feel it in the architecture particularly, but even down to the way people board a train. Moving between countries several times in a week made those contrasts much sharper!

I also found myself appreciating the quieter moments more than I expected. Early-morning platforms, late-night interchanges, and the rhythm of long-distance travel. There’s something quite grounding about watching the world pass by through a train window, knowing you don’t really need to be anywhere. It was refreshing.

Köln Cathedral on an unexpected late-night venture into the city from Aachen

Travelling alone added another layer. The freedom to wander, change plans and follow whims was wonderful, but there were moments of isolation too. Being in places where your language isn’t the default can be unexpectedly lonely, even in busy settings. I spent more time than I’d like to admit in supermarkets translating labels and trying to find basics that are second nature at home. But I loved it – the journeys, the places, and even the odd moments (including somehow finding myself in a light show parade in Eindhoven).

Now it’s back to work, but with a week of trains – and mountain air – still lingering.

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